Introduction
In the often stuffy and conservative world of Swiss horology, one brand has burst onto the scene with the energy of a sugar rush. Studio Underd0g Watches, founded in 2020 by British industrial designer Richard Benc, has disrupted the industry. Instead of heritage and history, they embrace a fun motto: “Serious watchmaking that doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
By blending playful, food-themed designs with solid mechanical craftsmanship, Studio Underd0g appeals to a new generation of collectors who crave personality. Moreover, its smart business model drives explosive growth. In this article, I will explore the core pillars of this brand. As an expert in luxury assets, I will analyze how a watch with a “Watermelon” dial became one of the most sought-after pieces in the world.
Design Innovation in Studio Underd0g Watches
At its heart, Studio Underd0g thrives on bold, whimsical designs. The brand transforms everyday treats into “wrist candy.” For example, the iconic Watermel0n chronograph features a juicy pink dial with green indices. Similarly, the Mint Ch0c Chip model mimics swirls of ice cream.
These designs spark conversations everywhere. Therefore, they stand out in a sea of sterile black and silver dials. Additionally, Studio Underd0g experiments with unique textures. The dials often have a rough, “gradient” finish that captures light playfully. Comparison: Just as Tourmaline Colors mimic a spice rack, these watches mimic a dessert menu. However, do not mistake them for toys. The attention to detail—from the font choice to the strap stitching—is professional grade.
Movements in Studio Underd0g Watches
Critically, collectors often ask: “What is inside?” This is where Studio Underd0g Watches made a brilliant strategic choice. To keep prices under $1,000 (approx. ₹80,000), they use the Seagull ST-1901 movement.
While some snobs dismiss Chinese movements, the ST-1901 is legendary. It is based on the Swiss Venus 175 calibre from the 1940s. Most importantly, it is a Column Wheel Chronograph. Typically, column wheels are found only in high-end watches like the Rolex Business Model Daytona or Zenith El Primero. Consequently, Studio Underd0g offers high-end mechanical feel (“clicky” pushers) at an entry-level price.
Vertical Integration: The Horologium Move
In late 2025, the brand took a bold step toward maturity. They acquired their assembly partner, Horologium. This means that while parts are sourced globally, every single watch is assembled, regulated, and tested in Great Britain.
This move ensures tighter oversight. Additionally, it boosts the “Made in Britain” appeal, resonating with patriotic collectors. For context, this mirrors how MB&F Watch Brand relies on “Friends” (partners) to build their machines. Ultimately, these efforts deliver chronographs accurate to within a few seconds per day, rivaling much more expensive brands.
The Studio Underd0g Watches Drop Strategy
Scarcity fuels the hype machine. Unlike brands you can buy anytime, Studio Underd0g Watches uses timed “Drops” or Pre-Order windows. Take the 2024 launch: A mere nine-hour window sold nearly 6,000 watches. Consequently, demand skyrocketed.
This model benefits everyone:
- For the Brand: It generates cash flow upfront and prevents overproduction (Waste).
- For the Buyer: It guarantees that if you order in the window, you will get a watch (unlike the Rolex waitlist game).
Moreover, drops often tie into themes. For instance, they famously launched a “Pizza” watch that was hand-delivered at watch fairs in pizza boxes. This marketing genius mirrors the storytelling of the Jaipur Watch Company.
High-Profile Collaborations
Furthermore, partnerships elevate the brand’s credibility. Richard Benc has teamed up with luxury heavyweights. Notably, the collaboration with H. Moser & Cie (Project Passion) was a shock. It blended a $60,000 Moser tourbillon with a $600 Studio Underd0g. As a result, the brand gained instant respect from the “High Horology” crowd. It proved that you could wear a Patek on Monday and a Studio Underd0g on Tuesday without losing status.
Buying Guide: How to Get One
Because they are not available in retail stores, buying one requires a strategy. Studio Underd0g runs lean and direct. Most sales happen via DTC (Direct to Consumer) on their website.
My Advice:
- Sign up for the Newsletter: You need to know when the “Drop Window” opens.
- Be Fast: While pre-orders are open for a few hours, the “In Stock” items sell out in seconds.
- Check the Secondary Market: If you miss a drop, platforms like eBay or Chrono24 have them, but often at a premium.
Transparency builds loyalty. Richard Benc shares raw insights on LinkedIn about supply chain struggles. Thus, fans feel like insiders on the journey.
Conclusion on Studio Underd0g Watches
In summary, Studio Underd0g Watches democratizes mechanical fun. They prove that a watch doesn’t need diamonds or gold to be valuable; it just needs a soul. For the Indian collector, this is a perfect “Fun Watch” to add to a serious collection. Ultimately, life is too short to wear boring watches.
FAQ: Studio Underd0g Watches
What makes Studio Underd0g watches unique?
They combine food-inspired dials (Watermelon, Mint Chip, Pizza) with British assembly and affordable mechanical movements. They offer “High Horology” aesthetics at a “Microbrand” price.
How do Studio Underd0g Watches drops work?
The brand opens a pre-order window (usually for 9 hours) once or twice a year. During this time, anyone can order. After the window closes, production begins, and delivery takes a few months.
Are the movements good quality?
Yes. The Seagull ST-1901 is a robust, hand-wound chronograph movement with a rich history. When regulated properly (which Studio Underd0g does in the UK), it is very accurate.
Where can I buy Studio Underd0g watches?
Primarily through StudioUnderd0g.com during drop windows. They do not have physical retail stores, which keeps the price low.
Will they make a dress watch?
They already have. The “Series 02” is a Field Watch style, and rumors of a “Series 03” dress watch are always circulating. Keep an eye on their Instagram.
Author Bio
P.J. Joseph, also known as Saju Elizamma, Gemstone & Gold Consultant serving Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka.
