Introduction
In the conservative world of Swiss watchmaking, one name breaks all the rules. MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) is not a traditional watch brand. Instead, it describes itself as a “horological concept laboratory.” It uses radical creativity, artistic experimentation, and open collaboration to build what it calls “Kinetic Art” for the wrist.
Rather than following standard luxury industry rules like Rolex or Patek Philippe, MB&F has built a business model that prioritizes transparency and friendship. In this article, I will explore how this MB&F Watch Brand operates. We will look at its financial strategy (including the recent Chanel investment), its “Friends” philosophy, and why buying an MB&F is like buying a sculpture that tells time.
The “Friends” Concept of the MB&F Watch Brand
First and foremost, MB&F is built around the idea of “Friends.” In most traditional watch brands, suppliers remain invisible. The brand takes all the credit. In contrast, MB&F openly acknowledges every single contributor. The movement designers, case makers, and dial specialists are listed on the website and often engraved on the watch case itself.
Therefore, every watch becomes a collaborative creation. This transparent approach not only honors independent artisans but also educates collectors about the complex ecosystem behind a high‑end mechanical watch. If you are interested in the complexity of movements, read my guide on Synthetic Rubies in Watches.
Scarcity in the MB&F Watch Brand Model
Another key pillar of the MB&F Watch Brand model is deliberate scarcity. Instead of chasing volume growth, the brand limits its annual production to around 420 pieces (as of 2025). As a result, each creation remains rare. The workshop is never forced into industrial-scale manufacturing.
Moreover, founder Maximilian Büsser has capped the company headcount at roughly 30 people. This decision prevents the growth of heavy management layers that slow down creativity. From a business perspective, this controlled scale protects brand equity. Low volumes create the kind of exclusivity that collectors crave.
Creative Autonomy and “Kinetic Art”
For many years, MB&F operated without outside shareholders. The company did not rely on market research or focus groups. Instead, Büsser followed a “self‑centered” creative process—translating childhood fascinations like spaceships and jellyfish into 3D wrist sculptures.
Although Chanel acquired a 25% minority stake in 2024, MB&F remains artistically independent. Consequently, legibility often takes second place behind visual drama.
To discover the heart of MB&F, you can check the MB&F People & Spirit Page to see their artistic manifesto.
Product Families of the MB&F Watch Brand
MB&F structures its creations into two primary collections.
Horological Machines (HM)
The Horological Machines represent the brand at its most futuristic. These pieces deconstruct the classic wristwatch. They look like spaceships (HM4), frogs (HM3), or bulldogs (HM10). Therefore, they feature unconventional case shapes and flying domes. They are for the collector who wants to wear “Sci-Fi on the wrist.”
Legacy Machines (LM)
On the other hand, the Legacy Machines explore history. The idea is: “What would MB&F have created if we existed 100 years ago?” As a result, the designs reference 19th‑century pocket watch traditions but interpret them in 3D. Signature elements include large “Flying Balance Wheels” suspended above the dial. This connects beautifully to the Titan Nebula Jalsa I reviewed recently, which also features a flying tourbillon.
M.A.D. Editions: The Lottery for the Fans
In 2021, MB&F introduced M.A.D. Editions. While main MB&F watches cost $50,000 to $200,000, M.A.D. Editions are priced around CHF 3,000. Even though they are more affordable, they share the same spirit of kinetic fun (featuring a spinning rotor on the dial).
However, demand was so high that the brand adopted a Lottery System. This system ensures fairness. You cannot just buy one; you have to win the right to buy one. It is the ultimate democratization of high-end design.
Financial Priorities of the MB&F Watch Brand
Furthermore, the financial model is unique. The company reinvests a massive 27% of revenue directly into Research & Development (R&D). In contrast, most luxury brands spend huge amounts on marketing (Celebrity Ambassadors). MB&F spends only about 5% on marketing.
Rather than splashing out on ads, the brand relies on word‑of‑mouth, deep relationships with “The Tribe” (owners club), and the unique experience of its M.A.D. Galleries.
Conclusion: A Laboratory of Dreams
In summary, the MB&F Watch Brand proves that you can build a successful business by breaking every rule in the book. By treating employees as “Friends” and customers as “Tribe Members,” Maximilian Büsser has created a cult following. Ultimately, owning an MB&F is not about telling time; it is about celebrating the madness of creativity.
FAQ: MB&F Watch Brand
What makes the MB&F Watch Brand different?
It positions itself as a “Concept Laboratory.” It openly credits collaborators (“Friends”), keeps production extremely limited, and prioritizes art over commercial trends.
Why does the MB&F Watch Brand limit production?
To maintain exclusivity and quality. By producing only ~420 pieces a year, the small team stays agile and creative without the pressure of mass manufacturing.
Are MB&F watches a good investment?
Generally, yes. Due to extreme rarity and high demand, many models trade above retail price. However, they should be bought for passion, not just profit.
What is the difference between HM and LM?
Horological Machines (HM) are futuristic, sci-fi inspired sculptures. Legacy Machines (LM) are historic, steampunk-inspired tributes to 19th-century watchmaking.
Where can I see MB&F watches?
You can view them at the brand’s own M.A.D. Galleries (Geneva, Dubai, Taipei) or through selected retail partners like Ethos in India.
Author Bio
P.J. Joseph, also known as Saju Elizamma, Gemstone & Gold Consultant serving Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka.
