Introduction
As we journey north from Gujarat, we enter the land of Kings: Rajasthan. Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery is perhaps the most globally recognized form of Indian adornment. Where Kerala jewelry focuses on solid gold, Rajasthan focuses on Color and Craft.
To begin with, these pieces are not just ornaments; they are symbols of social prestige and martial pride. Moreover, the state capital, Jaipur, is the gemstone cutting hub of the world. However, for a buyer, the complexity of Rajasthani techniques like Kundan and Thewa can be confusing. In this article, we will explore the iconic styles for men and women, delve into the signature art forms, and uncover the “buying secrets” to ensure you get authentic value.
Exquisite Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery for Women
First, let’s look at the pieces that define the Rajasthani bride. In fact, the aesthetic here is “More is More.”
The Aad (Choker) and Rani Haar
The Aad (also called Kanthi) stands out as a bold choker necklace. Unlike the flexible necklaces of the South, the Aad is often a rigid, curved plate of gold that hugs the neck. For instance, adorned with large pendants and Polki diamonds, it exudes authority. Transitioning to longer styles, the Rani Haar (Queen’s Necklace) cascades to the waist in multi-layered strands of pearls and emeralds. It pairs beautifully with the Gujarati Jewellery aesthetics of the neighboring state.
The Borla and Nath
Next, head ornaments add drama. For instance, the Borla (or Rakhdi) is distinct. Unlike the flat Maang Tikka of the rest of India, the Borla is spherical and bell-shaped. Additionally, no look is complete without the Nath—a large nose ring often supported by a chain hooked to the hair.
Bangles in Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery
Lower down, Chooda brings vibrant red lac bangles, often stacked with Bangadi (gold bangles). Finally, the Payal (Anklets) in Rajasthan are usually Silver, as gold is traditionally not worn on the feet out of respect for Goddess Lakshmi.
Regal Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery for Men
While women’s pieces dominate bridal showcases, Rajasthani men historically flaunted jewellery as emblems of power. Today, this trend is returning in wedding fashion.
Turban and Neck Ornaments
- Sarpech: A crest jewel pinned to the Turban (Pagdi). It signifies nobility.
- Kanthi: A heavy gold necklace worn by the groom.
Furthermore, men sport Gokhrus (bracelets) and signet rings. Ultimately, these pieces highlight how jewellery bridged valor and vanity in warrior clans. You can read more about how men are re-entering the luxury market in my post on Luxury Watch Collectors India.
Art Forms in Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery
What truly sets Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery apart? It is the technique.
Kundan in Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery
Kundan is the art of setting stones. Artisans use 24K pure gold foil to hold uncut diamonds (Polki) or glass in place. Meenakari is the art of enameling. Often, a necklace will have Kundan on the front and vibrant Meenakari (Red/Green enamel) on the back. Therefore, the jewelry is reversible and beautiful from all angles.
Thewa Art
From the Pratapgarh region comes Thewa. This is a delicate fusion of 23-carat gold sheets fused onto molten colored glass. As a Gem Expert, I must warn you: Thewa is Fragile. It is glass art. Therefore, treat it with extreme care.
An Expert Warning: The “Lac” Trap
However, there is a critical factor every buyer must know. Much of Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery (especially Kundan and heavy chokers) is filled with Lac (natural resin/wax).
- Why? To give the jewelry strength and shape without using solid gold blocks (which would be too heavy and expensive).
- The Risk: If you buy a 50-gram necklace, 15 grams might be Lac and stones.
Consequently, always ask the jeweler for the Net Gold Weight. Pay for the gold, not the glue. This is similar to the advice I gave in my Traditional Maharashtrian Jewellery guide regarding Thushi.
Conclusion: A Timeless Legacy
In essence, traditional Rajasthani jewellery captivates with its fusion of color, skill, and history. From the bustling Johari Bazaar in Jaipur to the high-end boutiques of Udaipur, these pieces are heirlooms. For the buyer, the key is to appreciate the Art (Meenakari/Thewa) while verifying the Asset (Gold purity).
If you are buying Polki diamonds, ensure you aren’t paying for synthetics or glass. Read my guide on Gemstone Buying Mistakes to stay safe.
FAQ: Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery
What makes Traditional Rajasthani Jewellery unique?
Its combination of Kundan (stone setting) and Meenakari (enameling) sets it apart. It is also known for using “Polki” (uncut diamonds) more than any other style.
Is Rajasthani jewellery only for women?
No. Men wear Turban jewels (Sarpech), heavy necklaces (Kanthi), and earrings (Murki), especially during weddings.
What is the difference between Kundan and Polki?
Polki is the stone (uncut natural diamond). Kundan is the technique (setting stones with gold foil). You can have a Kundan setting with Glass stones or Real Polki.
Can I wear Thewa jewellery daily?
No. Thewa is fused gold on glass. It is delicate and can crack if dropped or exposed to harsh chemicals. Keep it for special occasions.
Where can I buy authentic Rajasthani jewellery?
Jaipur is the global hub. Look for established jewelers (Gem Palace) in Jaipur or certified online sellers like Tanishq.
Author Bio
P.J. Joseph, also known as Saju Elizamma, Gemstone & Gold Consultant serving Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka.
